Martinmas

Salute

Here in the United States, November 11 is Veterans Day, a national holiday honoring all who have served in the military. Older folks remember it as Armistice Day, which began as a commemoration of the formal ending of World War I, or the Great War, as it was known before World War II. It was to be the war to end all wars…. which, of course, has not been the case. Still, the armistice that ended that war, signed at the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month of 1918, is, in countries on both sides of the Atlantic, remembered today. In 1954, Congress replaced the word “Armistice” with “Veterans,” and this is the name we have given this national holiday ever since.

The day marks a much older celebration, though. November 11 is the feast of St. Martin of Tours, who also happened to be a veteran, but of the Roman army. He was born in 316 in the part of the vast Roman Empire that is now Hungary and became a soldier when he was a young boy. He was part of the imperial calvary (which is why he is often depicted on horseback) and was sent to serve the empire in Gaul (which is now France). At some point, though, Martin had a change of heart: he converted to Christianity and became a pacifist and refused to fight. He was imprisoned for the pacifism he preached, but eventually was released. He became a monk and founded a monastery there in France.

Many of the legends that revolve around St. Martin happen to involve wine. The best known story is of him coming across a disheveled drunken man shivering in the cold on a bitter winter’s day; Martin saw the man, took off his own woolen cape, cut it in two with his sword, then wrapped one half around the cold man to warm him. In the Middle Ages, he was one of the more popular saints and became a patron saint of all kinds of folks, from tailors to innkeepers to the French monarchy… but perhaps St. Martin is best known as patron saint of grape growers and winemakers, and even of those who delight in wine (sometimes even of drunkards).

It is no wonder, then, that St. Martin’s Day, or Martinmas, has become associated with wine. It is the day to taste the year’s new wine, which has been fermenting by now for only a few weeks. French Beaujolais wines are still, to this day, released on or around Martinmas. His day is also the last big religious feast day before Advent, which was, in earlier days, a time of fasting, and so it was also a day for a good, hearty meal, often of goose or turkey––essentially, a meal of thanksgiving for the harvest. Traditional Martinmas foods include goose and turkey, and also chestnuts and very hard biscotti, some of which are baked not just twice but three times. Hard as rocks? You bet. But there’s a reason for that: Biscotti di San Martino are meant to be dunked in that new wine that we’re drinking on his day.

In the parts of Europe that most thoroughly celebrate St. Martin’s Day, it is often a time of warmer weather, the last bit of it before the full onset of winter. Kind of like Indian Summer in America, it’s known in Italy, for instance, as l’estate di San Martino (St. Martin’s Summer). But this mild weather tends to be fleeting. Colder nights lie ahead and with Martinmas we find ourselves, by traditional reckoning of time, at the natural start of winter. It is, until Yuletide, a time of increasing darkness. The living world continues its process of shutting down and receding into itself: going underground. Trees are no longer growing above, but roots below the surface still are growing. And so the connections are strong, these darkening days, between the world of the living and the underworld of the dead.

Of course we honored these days of the dead at the start of the month with Halloween and All Saints and All Souls. But the connection of Martinmas to the days of the dead is just as strong, through memory. Before the change to the Gregorian Calendar, the 11th of November was Samhain, the Celtic New Year. Another name for Martinmas is Hollantide, and just as Halloween is a corruption of the words All Hallow’s Eve, so is Hollandtide, which comes from Hallowtide: the time of the sacred, the holy––those who have gone before. Many of our contemporary Halloween traditions come out of Hollantide traditions: the carving of turnips (replaced by pumpkins here in America) into Jack o’Lanterns and the going door to door in search of soul cakes, which has evolved into the trick-or-treating we know today. The day is also a traditional weather marker: If ducks do slide at Hollantide, At Christmas they will swim. / If ducks do swim at Hollantide, At Christmas they will slide. / Winter is on his way At St. Martin’s Day.

And so we continue turning inward at this time of year, gathering in, preparing for winter. By all means, though, warm the evening at Martinmas with wine. Light a fire while you’re at it. The Celts would have lit huge bonfires on Samhain to welcome in the new year, and in our case, a small celebration involving a fire in the hearth or in the fire pit in the back yard is just as good, and even better with a bottle of wine and some good company. Good St. Martin himself would have it no other way.

Pictured above: Parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, godparents, raising their glasses at my sister’s christening dinner, Brooklyn 1953. “Salute!”

 

I Morti

I Morti

Today is All Souls Day, the companion to All Saints. It is Dia de Muertos in Mexico, I Morti in Italy, and certainly there are other names in other places for these days of the dead. I think of All Saints Day (or All Hallows, where Halloween gets its name), which was yesterday, as the more pious of the two days. Both are holidays of the Church; All Hallows is the day we remember all the countless and nameless saints who have gone before us, the ones who don’t have a feast day in their name. Ognissanti is the name Italians give to the First of November: “every saint.” But the Second of November is the day we remember everyone else, the ones who perhaps weren’t so saintly. Which is most of us, no? No matter how kind and respectful we are, there’s always something about ourselves we can improve upon. And so I think of All Souls as the more familial of the two days. These are the souls we can relate to.

Traditional folk cultures have always had a healthy relationship with death. Death is part of life, after all. It may not be something we want to talk about, but ignoring it is, I think, to not fully engage life. Celebrations like I Morti and Dia de Muertos, and even Halloween, as it ushers in these days of the dead, give us some power to deal with reality. If death is part of the equation, we may as well have some fun with it. And so we bake Pan de Muertos (Bread of the Dead) and we drink Bone Punch and we make sugar skulls and we laugh and cry and in a way, for these few days, at least, no one is missing. We are all together, across time: the other world dwells within the world of the living.

One thing I’d like to stress right here from the start of this blog is that the Book of Days is not about fun and happiness, not all the time. Yes, if you know Seth and me and Convivio Bookworks, you know that we are pretty partial to a festive time. Good food and drink is at the heart of much of what we do. But while festivity is of great importance, I think it’s equally important to acknowledge that there is a concurrent thread of melancholy that wends its way through life. If we consider weaving fabric as an analogy, perhaps we can think of joy as the warp and sadness as the weft. You can’t weave cloth without both threads, and using both makes a pretty interesting weave. If the Book of Days was to focus only on joy, it would be one sappy book: all sugar (or worse, saccharine) and no substance. Joy and happiness are wonderful things, but it is important to set the stage for needing joy and happiness. So much about contemporary holiday celebrations focuses solely on the sweet and does not delve into the darker mysteries of the days. If you’ve ever met someone who dislikes Christmas or Halloween, for instance, this may be at the core of what they are feeling. Sugar coating reality irritates people. Don’t do it.

Here’s what’s going on in homes in Sicily today for I Morti: the children are running around the house looking for presents (usually sweets from the bakery) that their dead relatives have brought and hidden for them. This is their time to return to the world of the living, plunder bakeries, and hide treats for the kids. The dead are gift bearers, much like Father Christmas or Santa Lucia. In other parts of Italy, people are dining tonight on stews made with fava beans. These large beans have been associated with death since the days of the Roman Empire and are at the heart of meals this time of year. In some places, families will leave a spoonful or two of fava bean stew out on the windowsill for the dead to enjoy. And of course there are sweets: cookies in the shape of fava beans or of bones: fave dei morti and ossi dei morti (Fave of the Dead and Bones of the Dead).

In Mexico, of course, the celebration is fantastic, a combination of celebration and reverence. Families are enjoying picnics in cemeteries at the graves of their loved ones. There are ofrendas set up in homes, filled with cut paper (papel picado), clay calaveras, candies, candles, and marigolds, as well as photographs of the ones who have gone before. There are sugar skulls and the Pan de Muertos mentioned above. There is music and dancing (can’t you hear the marimba (rattling like bones) and the mariachi?) Talk about a healthy relationship with death!

This all derives from the Celts, for whom this time was the close of one year and the start of a new: Samhain, the ancient Celtic new year. It is the start of winter by the Celtic calendar… and by traditional reckoning of time. We are about halfway now between the Autumnal Equinox and the Winter Solstice and these gateway days were/are considered times when the bridges between the physical and spiritual worlds were more easily crossed. Or think of them as the worlds of the living and of the dead. Or of the visible and the unseen. These are the traditions that inform so much of what goes on these three days of late October and early November. The Church turned Samhain into All Hallows so many centuries ago (one of the Church’s earliest proclaimed holidays, dating to the Seventh Century), and we celebrate it still today. And if we honor these days of the dead with reverence and yes, celebration, then we’ve done well in building that healthy relationship with reality and with weaving those strands of melancholy and joy. In the process, we find ourselves more complete.

Subtlety

Halloween 1922

Once again it is Halloween, spelled with an apostrophe in earlier days: Hallowe’en, which is derived from All Hallow’s Eve, the night before All Hallows or All Saints Day on the First of November. And when you spell it with the apostrophe, or call it by its original name, the holiday takes on a certain reverence that is easily passed over nowadays. The older version looks more enchanting, more magical, and it feels more connected to its place as the night that ushers in our traditional time of remembering those who have gone before us: The days that follow bring us All Saints, of course, on the First, and also All Souls Day on the Second, which is, perhaps, the more homey of the two. And while these are reverent days of the Church, those early popes and archbishops were only responding to traditions that had been going on for centuries already.

It seems the dropping of the apostrophe in Hallowe’en was already in vogue when the photographs above were taken 91 years ago. But certainly the spirit of the evening is there in these folks who put together costumes with what they had on hand and who, by the look of things, delighted in their transformation. This was no ordinary night for them. It was a night to become something else, something they weren’t normally. That’s magic.

Here’s the Convivio Dispatch that I wrote last year for Halloween night. It was titled Subtlety. I’m reprising it here only because I really liked this particular dispatch, and because it is Halloween and there is yet much to do in our house today: jack o’lanterns to carve, special dishes to prepare, decorating to finish. But still, I want to pass this particular Halloween present along to you. Everyone should get to read at least one really good ghostly tale on Halloween. And while I don’t know if this one fits the bill, it is what I have to offer you for this night. –jlc

 

CONVIVIO DISPATCH: SUBTLETY

And so here we are at my favorite time of year: autumn. Not that much happens here in this tropical place to mark the transition. Trees don’t change to brilliant hues, except for maybe one, the Florida Almond, whose leaves turns a beautiful bright red, but that barely counts when they are few and far between and when all the trees around them are still bright green and dripping with chlorophyll. There are no apples here to gather, and the pumpkins are trucked in from northern climes.

No, autumn in Lake Worth is definitely an exercise in subtlety. We notice shifting patterns of light and cooler breezes from the north begin to wend their way down the peninsula, like they have this past week. Those who don’t notice subtletly, or folks who have not been here very long, won’t even experience this subtlety. To them, it’s perpetual summer here. But while the change may be elusive, it is real.

This place is full of experiences like this. Subtle shifts beneath the radar that only the most perceptive pick up. Those of us who have lived here a long time like it this way. And those who lived here a long time ago seem to like it this way, too. Old ghosts, I think, prefer elusiveness. Even really big old ghosts.

My neighbor Earl loves to tell the tale of the day he was out in his boat on the Atlantic not far off of Lake Worth when something a bit extraordinary happened. It was an autumn day, just like today, clear, still, sparkling sunshine. He had a good day, caught a snook and some mackerel, and was just whiling some time away with a cup of coffee steaming hot from the thermos that Margaret had packed for him when something shimmered in the water and caught his eye. He looked over the side. Beneath the surface he saw a ship, a galleon. He looked from above down onto the mast and the deck and it was all there so clearly. He was sure it was the legendary Santa Margarita, a Spanish galleon laden with New World silver and gold that sunk off the east coast of Florida in a hurricane in 1595 and was never found. And there she was, majestic, massive, right beneath him in the clear Atlantic waters. And just as soon, a school of fish, flashing silver bronze then darkness, and silver again, and the school was vast and huge and he could practically feel the current of its motion beneath him. In its wake, clarity. No silver, no bronze, no blackness, no galleon. Just liquid crystalline water. The mast beneath him, wooden deck, all had vanished.

Was it ever there? Earl likes a bit of Jameson’s in his coffee sometimes, but Margaret insists: no drinking on the boat, so we know the vision can’t be blamed on sun and whisky. Earl says he circled the area five or six times, but still, there was no sign of the wreck. But he saw it so clearly, so distinctly. Like autumn in Florida, the galleon appeared, and then had vanished as quickly as it had come.

I love stories like this, the quiet run-in with parallel places. Even as a boy, my tastes ran to the quiet. I liked the stories folks had of quiet brushes with a world beyond, but was never all that fond of tales that were meant to be scary. Blood and gore? No, thank you. Axe murderers? No interest.

This may go back to the very first time I was scared out of my wits, which just happened to be on Hallowe’en. I don’t remember how old I was, but for sure I was little, and I was trick-or-treating alone, for some reason. No neighborhood friends to be found. It was just me, dressed as a hobo, I’m sure, because I was almost always a hobo on Hallowe’en. Mom would sew a few patches on my CPO coat and rub some black make up on my face to give me a few days’ beard growth, and we would dig an old crushed hat out of a bin in the closet and off I’d go, gathering treats. It was usually with other kids but that year, it was not, and I made my rounds, collecting candy from all the neighborhood moms, but when I rang the bell at this one house on Emerson Place, I got more than I had bargained for.

It was late afternoon, not dark yet, and it was a simple home, painted pale green, I remember that. Three concrete steps led up to the doorbell that I had just rung, and the door opened and what was there but a tall man who towered above me, dressed all in black with a long black and red cape and a black silk top hat with a crazy moustache and he tossed a box of Jawbreakers in my open bag and then he laughed. A deep, hollow cackling laugh that rattled through me, into my ears and out through my toes. And then he spun his cape around and closed the door as suddenly as he had opened it.

I stood there, panicked, unsure of what had just happened. I never got to say, “Trick or treat,” and I wasn’t quite able to move for a few seconds, but I felt sure I needed to get out of there. I turned around, and then I did what seemed to me the most logical thing to do: I reached into my bag of treats and I took out the box of Jawbreakers and I set it on the top step by the door. There was no doubt in my mind that if anyone was going to poison an unsuspecting trick-or-treater, it was this madman. And then I ran away, off to the next house.

What the guy on Emerson Place lacked in subtlety, he certainly made up for in panache. What style! But it was lost on me at the time. I was just a little kid shaking in his shoes, surprised I wasn’t swiped off the front porch and stuck into an oven with all the other neighborhood kids he must have taken. To me, it was a narrow escape. The guy in the top hat, though, he was just having some fun. Unfortunately, he lacked tact and yes, he lacked subtlety. He never would have seen Earl’s phantom galleon, I’m sure of it.

It was not long after that incident that I heard a story told quietly amongst adults over coffee at the dinner table. I was that kid who liked to sit there and listen to the grownups. Family friends would come to visit my parents and my grandparents and the younger ones would bring their kids, who would want to play with me. They’d sit next to me and slobber through dinner and even before they had wiped their hands they would jump up and grab my shirt and say, “Come on, Johnny, let’s play!” But me, I knew the good stuff was just about to begin. The percolator was on the stove, the pastries were in the boxes from the Italian bakery, and the stories would be getting good as the night wore on.

Perhaps that night there were no kids my age visiting, or perhaps we were playing a game that involved my closing the kid in a closet or something, but nonetheless, I got to sit and hear how this woman had recently lost a close friend in a terrible accident. And how one evening a few weeks after the funeral, during dinner, the doorbell rang. She got up to answer the door, but when she did, no one was there. And the dog, who spent all his time in the fenced-in front yard, and who barked at anyone and anything who passed by, but who never barked at her friend, was napping quietly on the porch. He looked up at her, she looked at the dog, and then she stepped outside to have a look around. No one to be seen. The swing gate at the sidewalk was latched closed. And she had no doubt then that it was her friend who had come to stop by, to check on her, maybe say the good bye she had not been able to say before.

This is subtlety. These are the stories I like. Especially at Halloween, a night given to mystery. It is the old passing of the year in the Celtic calendar, autumn giving way to winter, perhaps more sensible than the random date of January 1 that we’ve been using these past few centuries. The Celts called it Samhain (pronounced sow-an), and a good many of our Halloween traditions come out of this celebration. It was a time of year when the bridge between this world and the unseen mystical world was open and beings from either side could easily make the crossing. And who’s to say it is not still so? Seth and I have been taken up lately in watching documentaries about the workings of the universe. Talk about mindboggling! The more you tell me about astrophysics and quantum mechanics and the universe, the more bewildering it all seems to me. Anything is possible.

I, for one, am quite content knowing the Santa Margarita is still out there somewhere, unfound in our coastal Atlantic waters for centuries even in these high-tech days, and I am quite willing to suspend my sense of disbelief long enough to believe that Earl had crossed that bridge, or at least come to view the opposite side of it. But that may be because I love a good story. And all I do is offer these stories to you as my gift; it’s up to you to do with them what you will.

And with that I bid you good night. Happy All Hallow’s Eve.
John