Monthly Archives: March 2014

San Giuseppe

SanGiuseppe

It’s St. Joseph’s Day today, the 19th of March. When the Lenten season begins early, which this year it did not, St. Joseph’s Day arrives bringing a welcome respite from Lent’s bare-bones penitence in the form of decadent desserts. This year, we’re only two weeks into Lent at this point… but still, we’ll take the decadent desserts.

St. Joseph is sacred to Italy. He is a patron saint of children and of pastry chefs, both of whom typically have a fondness for sweets, and any Italian bakery worth its salt today will be selling at least a couple of pastries made especially for San Giuseppe. It’s a good sign if you walk into one such bakery today and see trays and trays of zeppole and sfinci. Both are pastries of fried dough, generous in size, each typically something you could fit into two open hands. Zeppole are filled with custard and often include a few cherries on top. Sfinci are filled with sweetened ricotta cream, perhaps with a few small chocolate chips, very much like a cannoli filling. Many Italian bakeries sell these pastries for a few weeks before and after St. Joseph’s Day, but today is their traditional day, and we take that first bite into a delectable zeppole, with the aroma of strong espresso in the air, and we thank San Giuseppe for bringing a bit of sweetness to Lent’s otherwise stark and penitent nature.

Variations of these sweets, in name and in shape and ingredients, exist throughout Italy for the feast of San Giuseppe, but it is in the South, from where my family hails, that they are best known. Both sfinci and zeppole are pastries with histories that go back many centuries, with names that come out of the Arabic influence on the region. How far back do they go? The ancient Romans made fried pastries each year on the 17th of March in honor of Bacchus, and it is thought that the zeppole and sfinci we make today are direct descendants of those springtime sweets.

Both of my grandmothers were devotees of San Giuseppe. Many years before I was born, Grandma Cutrone used to prepare an altar to St. Joseph each year for his feast day. My dad would help her set up the altar in their home, and on it Grandma would place breads and ceci beans and oranges and animal crackers for the children. There are old 8 mm black and white home movies of friends and neighbors coming in to see the altar and pay their respects. The priest would come to bless it, and Grandma Cutrone would give each person who visited an orange to take home with them.

My Grandma Assunta did not have such an altar in her home, but she would often pray to San Giuseppe, and we couldn’t leave church each Sunday before she lit the big candle at St. Joseph’s statue in the chapel. We would visit him each week there. To this day, every time I go to a church, I light a candle for her, because that’s what she would do, and it’s one of many ways I have of keeping in touch with those who came before us.

I’m glad they both loved St. Joseph so much. A good friend of ours, Father Philip Joly, recently helped me see St. Joseph in a new light. St. Joseph, who is also a patron saint of families, is almost always depicted as an old man. The truth is, though, Mary was probably just a teenager when the angel came to tell her she would be giving birth to a son, the son of God. Joseph, who was engaged to her, was probably not much older himself, and he, too, received a visit from the angel saying, “Don’t be afraid.” There he was, a young man, with a pregnant teenage wife, pregnant not by him, asked to become a father to a son that was not his. That’s a lot to swallow, no? But he supported his betrothed, and he went through with it. He had compassion, and he had faith. Joseph’s family was no ordinary family. And so when we think of San Giuseppe as the patron saint of families, we know that that extends to all families, no matter how traditional or non-traditional they may be. What a guy.

 

Image: That’s Grandma Cutrone on the right, Grandpa Cutrone on the left, my dad’s Aunt Carmela between them, and the altar to San Giuseppe in their home for St. Joseph’s Day, circa 1940s, Brooklyn, New York.

 

 

Céad Míle Fáilte

Fairyhouse

A hundred thousand welcomes! That’s the translation from the Gaelic of the title of today’s chapter, a traditional Irish toast, quite proper for today, St. Patrick’s Day. There will be a lot of toasting today, to be sure. St. Patrick is sacred to Ireland, and as they say, everyone is Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. In this house, we’ll be eating the traditional corned beef and cabbage and soda bread, though oysters or shepherd’s pie or bangers and mash would be just as traditional. Take your pick. The day is widely celebrated with the wearing of the green and plenty of iconic imagery: shamrocks, harps, and shillelaghs, leprechauns and pots o’gold.

Patrick was a fourth century saint. He was born in Britain but was captured as a young man and taken to Ireland as a slave. He eventually escaped, made his way by sea to Gaul and became a priest there. He was made a bishop and soon after began to have visions suggesting he return to Ireland to spread the faith, which he did. One story tells of how he explained the Holy Trinity to the people of Ireland through the three leaves of the shamrock. He is most famous, however, for driving the snakes from Ireland. Whether it be by the hand of Patrick or not, there are to this day no snakes in Ireland, at least not in the wild. Some, however, think the story of Patrick driving the snakes from Ireland is more a metaphor for his driving the old Celtic gods and goddesses from the island, replacing the Old Ways with Christian beliefs.

But Ireland is a place of mystery, and if the story of St. Patrick and the snakes is indeed about the Old Ways and not about snakes, then it’s not true that they’re completely driven away, for there are plenty of these old mysteries still at play there, and some of the most fascinating stories, I think, revolve around the fairy folk: the stuff of legend, and yet there are those who firmly believe in the stories and their power. And St. Patrick’s Day, in particular, is a day that is best celebrated with stories and poems and songs of this place. So make your traditional Irish dinner, and pour some Jameson’s or some Guinness or Harp. But be sure, too, there is fiddle music, and something to read or recite.

Here in town tonight, over at St. Bernard’s, in the rectory after his meal, Father Seamus will certainly be pouring a glass of something and reciting Yeats. He is a priest who loves to recite poetry to the congregation, and William Butler Yeats, the great poet of his long-ago homeland, is one of his favorites. Tonight, it could be any of his poems of Ireland. Seamus knows so many of them by heart, and perhaps tonight it will be this one:

Where dips the rocky highland
Of Sleuth Wood in the lake,
There lies a leafy island
Where flapping herons wake
The drowsy water rats;
There we’ve hid our faery vats,
Full of berrys
And of reddest stolen cherries.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Where the wave of moonlight glosses
The dim gray sands with light,
Far off by furthest Rosses
We foot it all the night,
Weaving olden dances
Mingling hands and mingling glances
Till the moon has taken flight;
To and fro we leap
And chase the frothy bubbles,
While the world is full of troubles
And anxious in its sleep.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car,
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star,
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams;
Leaning softly out
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than you can understand.

Away with us he’s going,
The solemn-eyed:
He’ll hear no more the lowing
Of the calves on the warm hillside
Or the kettle on the hob
Sing peace into his breast,
Or see the brown mice bob
Round and round the oatmeal chest.
For he comes, the human child,
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world’s more full of weeping than he can understand.

The poem is “The Stolen Child.” Father Seamus loves it because it reminds him so intensely of the home he left behind when he crossed the western ocean and came to America. And as much as he loves it here, Ireland is always in his heart, and the world, he knows, is indeed full of weeping. St. Patrick’s Day is bittersweet for Seamus. Fairy folk are fewer and farther between here, and sometimes he feels a bit himself like a stolen child, removed from his homeland. But tonight, Seamus gets to celebrate that place. We all do, because we’re all Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. Céad míle fáilte!

 

Image: A fairy house I stumbled upon at the base of a tree in a woods in Maine. Certainly some fairy folk exist there, too. Good to know.

 

 

Tervetuloa (Except for Grasshoppers)

Urho

Don’t be surprised if you’ve never heard of St. Urho’s Day. My first encounter with it (and with the word Tervetuloa, which is Finnish for “Welcome!”) was at the local Finlandia Days celebration many years ago, somewhere between the Wife Carrying Contest and the performance by an orchestra comprised entirely of accordions. One of the Finnish folklorists told me the tale of St. Urho, who drove the grasshoppers from Finland, and whose day is celebrated today, March 16.

If this sounds vaguely like another saint who happened to drive the snakes out of Ireland and who will be celebrated with his own special day tomorrow, well, perhaps there are connections to be made. Perhaps St. Urho is a fabrication, but who is to say in cases like this what is true and what is not? It is certainly not up to me.

Here in Lake Worth, which, together with our neighboring town of Lantana, boasts the largest concentration of Finns outside of Finland, Finnish tales are easy to come by. It just takes a visit to the Finnish bakery on East Ocean Avenue, where the old Finnish men sit out front drinking coffee and eating cardamom scented buns each morning, or to the Finnish Consulate on Lake Avenue in Downtown Lake Worth, or to the Finnish American Rest Home or the American Finnish Kerhotalo (Clubhouse), where we go to celebrate Midsummer Night with a roaring bonfire, to hear some of these tales. And while there is no big St. Urho’s Day celebration here that I know of, it certainly seems there should be.

St. Urho drove the grasshoppers from Finland with a simple proclamation: Heinäsirkka, heinäsirkka, mene täältä hiiteen, or in English, “Grasshopper, grasshopper, go to Hell!” There you go. Pretty direct. Driving out the grasshoppers saved Finland’s legendary grape harvest. His day is celebrated by wearing purple and green (that guy tomorrow only gets green), and some drinking is naturally part of the celebration, too.

Believe what you wish. Celebrate what you will. But tonight, drink a toast to St. Urho, with a wink and smile: Cheers to St. Urho and to you and me! Tervetuloa to all but the grasshoppers!