Author Archives: John Cutrone

The Mystery, Again, of St. Mark’s Eve

You’ve not heard much from me these past few weeks, have you? Not much going in the realm of seasonal celebrations, not since Easter began. My theory on this is that in our agrarian past, when all this seasonal celebrating began, this was far too busy a time to be celebrating. There were newborn farm animals to tend to, and land to prepare for planting.

But despite the fact that it snowed in parts of the Northeast a day or two ago, summer is a’comin’ in. In fact, by traditional reckoning of time, it arrives very soon, on the First of May, which I know is different from what the almanac tells us. But it is traditional reckoning of time that most concerns us here at the Book of Days.

St. Mark’s Eve, tonight, sort of gets the ball rolling toward summer. It’s a night mainly for divination. Here’s a reprint of last year’s chapter on St. Mark’s Eve. I’m not sure I can improve upon it. And perhaps I don’t have time, too, either… after all this time without writing to you, St. Mark’s Eve completely snuck up on me!
–– John

StMarksEve

As we approach the last week of April, we come to St. Mark’s Day on the 25th, and, as with most holidays, its more important eve the night before. This practice comes to us from the traditional reckoning of time and the practice of experiencing days from sunset to sunset… which, when you think about it, is somewhat more practical than the random Stroke of Midnight beginning we follow nowadays. More practical and more natural, attuned to the natural rhythms of day and night.

And so with the setting sun on the 24th we have St. Mark’s Eve, set aside as one of the traditional nights for divining the future. This is especially true for matters of the heart. One of the most common divination spells is as follows: Fast from sunset on St. Mark’s Eve and during the night, bake a cake that contains an eggshellfull of salt, wheat meal, and barley meal. Set the baked cake to cool on the table and leave the door to your home open. Sometime over the course of the night your future love will come in and turn the cake.

Certainly a spell like this harkens back to simpler times, when we were less in need of locking our doors at night, let alone leaving them open. Personally, I’d go with the security of a locked door and just wait to meet my future love in a more public place.

Others use the Eve of St. Mark to foresee the shadows of all in the village who would be buried in the churchyard in the coming year. Great fun, of course! This requires some planning ahead, however, as the spell needs three years to work. For each of three St. Mark’s Eves in a row you’ll need to fast and then spend the hours between 11 PM and 1 AM sitting on the porch of a church. Come the third year, in that witching hour, you should see a procession pass before you of the shadows of all who will die in the coming year, as this excerpt from a poem by James Montgomery suggests:

‘Tis now, replied the village belle,
St. Mark’s mysterious eve,
And all that old traditions tell
I tremblingly believe;
How, when the midnight signal tolls,
Along the churchyard green,
A mournful train of sentenced souls
In winding-sheets are seen.
The ghosts of all whom death shall doom
Within the coming year,
In pale procession walk the gloom,
Amid the silence drear.

The poem is titled “The Vigil of St. Mark.” But back to matters of the heart: Just as at Halloween, there is as well a long standing tradition of divination by nuts on St. Mark’s Eve. Young women would set a row of nuts on the hot embers of the hearth, one for each girl. Each would breathe the name of her intended into the hearth and if the love was to be true, the nut would jump away as it got hotter. But if the nut sat there and was consumed by the fire, the love was not meant to be:

If you love me, pop and fly,
If not, lie there silently.

The morning brings St. Mark’s Day, with blessings upon the newly sown crops. Summer will soon be returning (in fact, it’s right around the corner, again by traditional reckoning of time: May Day is drawing near). With summer comes the arrival of migratory birds to northern climes, and birds are an important part of the festivity of St. Mark’s Day: Cuckoos, in particular, and in England, the cuckoo is also known as St. Mark’s Gowk. The blessings upon the crops go back to a much earlier celebration of late April: the Ancient Roman festival of Robigalia, celebrated to appease the mildew spirit and to keep those newly sown crops healthy and thriving.

 

Image: An engraving of divination by nuts taken from the Chambers Bros. Book of Days, Edinburgh, 1869.

 

Your April Book of Days

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Sometimes months begin with lots going on, and those are the months I forget to tell you about the newest editions of the ongoing Convivio Book of Days Calendar. Such was the case this month but I always remember sooner or later and so here you go: your Convivio Book of Days Calendar for April.

This month’s cover star is the Guyana Chestnut tree that grows in our Lake Worth yard. It’s one of the few trees here in South Florida that is deciduous. But here, autumn and spring happen all at once: the Guyana Chestnut drops its old leaves, but the tree is bare for just a short time before spring’s bright green new growth emerges. By now, each evening that same tree is exploding in fragrant shaving brush blossoms. It happens around 9 PM, usually with an audible pop of the pod, and then the unfurling. The very air is spiced as this happens. It is a magical thing to witness.

Happy spring to you all.

 

Buona Pasqua

LaFellata

Come noon on Holy Saturday, that is today, lent is over. Or so this was the tradition in my grandparents’ home. The day before was Good Friday and my mother recalls that on Good Friday, the home was in a state of mourning, as if there was a wake going on (and back then wakes took place in the home). “You couldn’t turn on the radio,” she says. “You couldn’t even step on the cracks of the sidewalk.” She doesn’t remember whose rule that was, but it was, nonetheless, a Good Friday rule for my mom as a little girl.

But by noon on Holy Saturday, the mood shifted to one of preparation for the next day’s big feast. In their home, the Easter meal was usually lamb: chunks of it braised on the stove with garlic and onion, then mixed with spring dandelion greens, scrambled egg and parsley and grated parmesan cheese. In their dialect from Lucera the dish was called spetsada (and I’m not sure of the spelling, considering this is not true Italian). The lamb and the eggs bring important symbolism to the Easter table, foods we take in that tell the story of spring’s renewal through subtle hints of sacrifice and resurrection.

At Grandma Cutrone’s table, the meal was typically a fancy pasta dish like ravioli. And this typically is what our Easter table holds, too. The ravioli are always homemade and that part of the meal is always preceded by a special Easter antipasto called la fellata. It begins with a large platter (we like abundance, so the larger the better!). First on the platter are paper thin slices of salami and prosciutto, and atop them, rounds of pepperoni and soppresata, sliced hard boiled eggs, wedges of sharp provolone and slices of fresh mozzarella. In the very center goes an Italian basket cheese, which we usually call “cheese in the basket,” but just as my grandparents all spoke their particular dialects of the Italian language, even “basket cheese” seems like a sort of Italian-American dialect. Its proper Italian name might be canestrato, but basket cheese seems its most prevalent name, and the name comes from the cheese being formed inside a basket––once reed but now most often plastic––so that the impression of the basket is apparent in the finished cheese once it is removed from the basket and placed on the table. Sometimes, if the platter is just too close to overflowing, we might place the fresh mozzarella and the basket cheese in a platter of their own. If your fellata is to be truly delicious, you’ll procure all of these items from a good Italian market, rather than from the supermarket. (When’s the last time you had good fresh mozzarella from the supermarket?)

What separates Grandma Cutrone’s version of la fellata from that of my mother’s family is the addition of sliced oranges. Perhaps they began as leftovers from Grandma Cutrone’s St. Joseph’s Day altar in March, for she always placed baskets of oranges at her altar for St. Joseph. No matter how or why, the sliced oranges brighten the platter. They are cut in thick rounds with one slice from the center out to the peel, so that the orange sections can be pulled apart into a big toothy grin. And of course colored eggs and baskets of the taralli that were the focus of the last chapter of the Book of Days. (I included a recipe for taralli there should you be looking for a good Holy Saturday project.)

Getting through the meal at the Easter table at our house takes hours. Like the Easter Vigil Mass that begins at sundown tonight, it is an occasion not for the faint of heart. It is an event for which one brings a hearty appetite for food and for life. And as we toast each other at that table so we toast you: Buona Pasqua a tutti!