Author Archives: John Cutrone

The Bartlemas Wayzgoose

Wayzgoose

As a printer and a book artist who writes about the quirkier side of seasonal traditions, I can get a bit giddy about a day like today. It’s St. Bartholomew’s Day, also known as Bartlemas, or Bartlemy’s Day. It is a lesser known feast day of a lesser known saint, to be sure… but this saint is a patron saint of bookbinders and book artists, and his day has long held great significance to printers and papermakers, too. It is the day of the great printers’ celebration known as the Wayzgoose. If you’re a book person, this is it: THIS is your day.

Very few professions get to claim a saint just for themselves, and this is the case with St. Bart, too. Aside from looking after all these bookish artisans, he is also a patron saint of butchers and tanners and cheesemakers. Usually in these matters there is some bizarre connection to a gruesome story and that is the case here: St. Bartholomew was one of the original Twelve Apostles and his martyrdom is said to have been delivered upon him in Armenia in the First Century, where he was flayed alive for his Christian beliefs and crucified upside down. (I told you it was gruesome.) The flaying is our connection to butchers and tanners and by extension to bookbinders, for one of their traditional materials for binding books is leather. (How the cheesemakers hopped on board the St. Bart train, I do not know.)

The Bartlemas connection for the rest of the bookish professions seems to come in more as a matter of practical timing and here we come to a common Book of Days theme: summer is waning, winter is approaching, let’s prepare and let’s celebrate. Since the Midsummer solstice in June, we’ve been losing a little bit of daylight each day. Very soon, with the autumnal equinox in just four weeks, day and night will be balanced. This progression toward darkness in the Northern Hemisphere will continue, day by day, until we get to the Midwinter solstice in December. In the days before electrical light, by this time each summer in print shops across England it would become apparent that there was not enough daylight to set type by hand. Usually by St. Bartholomew’s Day, daylight had to be supplemented by lamplight and candlelight in order to get the job done of minding all those Ps and Qs.

As for the papermakers, their Bartlemas connection comes from the dual nature of their profession early on: Paper was used not just for books and printing, but also for windows. Glass windows were not very common back then, especially in homes. What folks could afford was paper. Around Bartlemas Day, papermakers traditionally made this waxed window paper, which would be needed now that winter was on its way. After they had made all they could, they emptied their vats and began making paper again for the printers using rags that had been retting all summer. For the papermakers, St. Bartholomew’s Day was marked in this “Out with the old, in with the new” fashion.

It is the printers, however, who really made the day a celebration. We can be a rowdy and celebratory bunch, to be sure. A good printshop proprietor (I like to think of someone along the lines of a Mr. Fezziwig from Dickens’ A Christmas Carol) would close up shop for the day, give his printers the day off and line their pockets with a little extra pay. The extra pay was meant to help them procure a goose for their dinner table (which is one idea as to the origin of the name Wayzgoose). Where there is good food there is generally good drink, and healthy amounts of ale were poured out at a typical Wayzgoose, too. If you were in Cornwall, it might be mead instead of ale. Even to this day there is a Blessing of the Mead ceremony in Cornwall on St. Bartholomew’s Day. Oh and guess who is a patron saint of beekeepers, too? Yes, St. Bartholomew. As we continue to gather our stores for the coming winter, it is traditional, too, to bring in the honey crop on his feast day.

Hopefully this past weekend you read the previous chapter of the Convivio Book of Days blog, which supplied a recipe, first published in 1664, for a rare Bartlemas Beef. It is Sunday night as I write this, and our Bartlemas Beef is in the fridge, covered over in white wine and vinegar, as it has been all day and night. In the morning it will be dried, rubbed with nutmeg, ginger, mace, cinnamon and cloves. It is a recipe that requires some time. Since I have to go to work in the morning, I’m putting it in the slow cooker with potatoes and parsnips and carrots, and come evening, we shall see what we shall see. It will be served hot, not cold, which is not what Hannah Wolley dictates in her recipe, but I think Hannah would be okay with that. There will be ale and we will raise our glasses and the roof a bit in honor of all the printers, all the papermakers, all the bookbinders. It is a noble craft. Huzzah and cheers to us all.

 

Image: The wonderful word WAYZGOOSE set in historic wood type from our collection, ready for printing in the bed of the newly refurbished Nolan tabletop press that our pal Terrence Chouinard recently delivered to us from Chattanooga. He painted it Fire Engine Red for us. The goal for the Nolan is to help make our printing more portable, allowing Seth & me to print at workshops and events… like at the Maker Meet coming up at Social House in Downtown Lake Worth on Wednesday evening, September 2, 2015, from 6 to 9 PM. You should come see us there.

Did you miss our 1664 recipe for Bartlemas Beef? Subscribers to the Convivio Book of Days blog did not. Click on a SUBSCRIBE or FOLLOW link and you’ll never miss another chapter.

 

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To Make a Rare Bartlemas Beef

MrsBeetonsMeatCuts

Monday next will bring St. Bartholomew’s Day, the day of the traditional printer’s wayzgoose, this is a big day for book artists like me: St. Bartholomew is a patron saint of bookbinders and book artists and his day has been of significance to printers and papermakers, as well, for centuries. Goose is one traditional meal for the day, as is cheese, for St. Bart is also a patron saint of cheesemakers. But so is Bartlemas Beef, which takes some time to prepare… hence today’s post, designed to give you the time necessary to prepare a proper meal for your Wayzgoose Monday.

This recipe for a Rare Bartlemas Beef is taken from The Cook’s Guide by Hannah Wolley, printed in London in 1664. (The book’s full title is quite long: The Cook’s Guide: or, Rare receipts for cookery Published and set forth particularly for ladies and gentlewomen; being very beneficial for all those that desire the true way of dressing all sorts of flesh, fowles, and fish; the best directions for all manner of kickshaws, and the most ho-good sawces: whereby noble persons and others in their hospitalities may be gratified in their gusto’s. Phew. Perhaps the first celebratory printer’s wayzgoose came about once the typesetter triumphantly finished setting the type for this long-winded title.)

Lady Wolley calls this beef “rare” meaning fine or good. It does not refer to the cooking temperature. Judging by the three days soaking, she means for us to use salted beef, but that was 1664 and this is not and I think we can begin with fresh beef at the second step of her recipe, where the vinegar and wine is introduced. Be that as it may, here is her full 1664 recipe for a Rare Bartlemas Beef:

Take a fat Brisket piece of beef and bone it, put it into so much water as will cover it, shifting it three times a day for three dayes together, then put it into as much white wine and vinegar as will cover it, and when it hath lyen twenty-four hours take it out and drye it in a cloth, then take nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, cloves and mace, of each a like quantity, beaten small and mingled with a good handful of salt, strew both sides of the Beef with this, and roul it up as you do Brawn, tye it as close as you can; then put it into an earthen pot, and cover it with some paste; set it in the Oven with household bread, and when it is cold, eat it with mustard and sugar.

There you have it: an old old recipe for celebrating an old old holiday. The St. Bart’s Wayzgoose is not widely celebrated today, but, considering the current boom of interest in letterpress printing and book arts, perhaps it should be. Pass the mustard, please.

The image of several fancy cuts of meat is from another old cookbook (though not nearly as old as Hannah Wolley’s): Mrs. Beeton’s Cookery Book, 1901. Thank you to the University of Michigan Digital Library for the online version of The Cook’s Guide.

 

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Ferragosto or, Dog Days are Over

While in Japan it is the time of Obon, in Italy it is the time of Ferragosto. Woe to American tourists who travel to Italian cities at this time of year, for chances are good they will find the majority of shops and restaurants closed. Most Italians have headed to the sea for the Ferragosto holiday, a practice that dates back to ancient Rome where this time was known as Feriae Augusti, or “Holidays of the Emperor Augustus.”

The sea is the logical destination as these sultry Dog Days of summer, the hottest part of the year, ruled by Sirius, the dog star, come to a close. There are many schools of thought as to the meaning and the timing of the Dog Days, but if we have to choose one, I’ll subscribe to the version that has them begin each year in early July and end about now, around the 15th of August. For all these Dog Days, Sirius and our sun have been rising together in the morning sky. It was thought in times past that the combined heat of the two made for our hottest days. But in the constant rearrange of the stars and planets, now Sirius begins to emerge from the sun’s bright light and heat to rise independently. The two forces separate.

In the Catholic Church, today is the Feast of the Assumption, marking the day of Mary’s ascent, body and soul, to heaven. Mary, human like us. It is also my grandmother’s birthday. Because she was born on the Assumption, her parents named her Assunta, in honor of the day. Ferragosto and the Feast of the Assumption go hand in hand.

In Lavagna, Italy, yesterday brought a festival that features a cake that stands 21 feet tall! It is the Torta dei Fieschi, a wedding anniversary celebration that dates all the way back to 1230. Tomorrow, on the 16th, it is Il Palio in Siena, the famous horse race that runs through the entire city. This Ferragosto tradition is accompanied by celebrations throughout Siena and, of course, great quantities of food and wine.

In short, if you are in Italy, Ferragosto is not a time to stay home. But this seems not unusual. Some years ago, my mom’s cousin Tina visited from Italy. We had never met her before. She arrived in Miami for a one week stay with three very heavy suitcases, and while she was with us, she changed outfits more than once a day. One of her morning robes had feathers on it. We had never seen such a thing except maybe in glamorous old Hollywood films. Feathers floated into the air in her wake as she floated down the hallway. On Sunday during her visit, we did what we always do: Mom made a big dinner while Dad puttered around the house. Tina asked in Italian, “But what do you do on Sundays here?” Mom answered in the best Italian she could muster. “We cook, we read the paper, we relax.” Tina was not impressed. “In Italy,” she said, “we go out. We go dancing.”

This is what I imagine Italy to be like during Ferragosto, at least if you are in the right place at the right time. If you are in a touristy part of Florence or Rome during Ferragosto, you’re probably in the wrong place at the wrong time. But if you are in Siena, or in Lavagna, or in Napoli (where Tina is from)… well, there’s probably a lot of celebrating and dancing to be done. Get you to the sea or get you to a festa. Summer is coming to a close and it is time to send it out with a bang. Florence + the Machine have got that down pat. The dog days are over, the dog days are done.

DogDays

 

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